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issue JUN 2017 VOL: 178
2017-06-16 17:42:37

Balenciaga 買大定買細

Text : 冰汪

早前,Balenciaga因為一個玩Ikea藍色購物袋的tote bag,被恥笑被惡搞被喪鬧,啜核改圖滿天飛。一夜間,全世界都知巴黎世家有一個賣二千蚊美金的宜家皮革tote bag。大家估下,創作總監Demna Gvasalia會覺得受網絡欺凌,抑或,心裡暗笑?


Blue wrinkled and glazed leather extra-large shopper bag. $16,730(B)

要總結宜家袋事件,很簡單,認真便輸了。作為設計師,怎會不知道他的設計比原物貴二千倍的連鎖反應,他就是要幽世界一默,就是要make noise。結果,引來網民激動地士多啤梨蘋果橙,未免太沒幽默感吧。網上世界的集體反智,有時候是難以置信的
恐怖。

言歸正傳,今季是Demna Gvasalia加入Balenciaga的處男作,亦是品牌近一百年歷史以來,首次舉行男裝catwalk show。初來報到,當然要到品牌創辦人Cristobal Balenciaga的archive尋寶,大師沒有做男裝,但他會做自己的衣服。於是,來自格魯吉亞的繼任人,將大師幫自己做衫的方法,結合他為女士度身訂製的多種招牌剪裁,為系列奠定大方向。

這位當今巴黎紅人,天不怕地不怕,設計極loud,有了Cristobal Balenciaga的寶貴材料作後盾,一來就晒冷,放肆地玩弄剪裁。他的玩法,最爆是一系列super shoulder外套,無論是西裝、大褸、Harrington外套及bomber jacket,一律在膊位刻意僭建,厚厚墊膊,令模特兒全部化身美式足球員,線條四方硬朗,貫徹他顛覆時裝界的怪雞風,以他的往績,算是見怪不怪。

獨沽一味大,未免單調悶蛋,於是,他動動腦筋,決定玩對比。既然做了巨膊,索性利用同款布料及款式,複製一件超窄膊加收腰版本,就像大師當年為尊貴客人做的tailoring。一闊,一窄,將巴黎世家的剪裁工藝發揮得淋漓盡致,連通常只在bespoke訂製衣服才會使用的馬毛裡布都出場,馬毛的堅挺,令誇張線條更無堅不摧。

細心留意,在西裝及大褸的胸袋,露出了一條印上品牌標誌的白邊。那不是袋巾,而是一張尺寸記錄卡,即是裁縫師為客人做衫時用的,他複製白卡,插入口袋,明顯是要重溫(還是重建?)巴黎世家的光輝歲月,多少有點雄心壯志的意味。

 雖然是春夏系列,整個系列的重點,買重在各款外套。剛才提及的Harrington外套及bomber jacket,在男裝世界是長青文物,流行了幾十年,幾十年都係咁樣樣。落在他手上,他做了三個動作,先加上巨膊,繼而收窄衫身,最後大幅裁短外套長度,短到好似縮水那種短。就是這樣,男人兩大恩物成功改頭換面,我敢肯定,九成男士會耍手擰頭,永恆地穿他們的永恆經典,沒所謂,也沒有對錯,每人都有自己的喜好及選擇權利,Demna Gvasalia是設計師,如果他將MA-1 copy and paste搬上天橋,那才是大件事。況且,人紅,幾奇形怪狀的設計都有人買,何況是區區超級膊頭,濕濕碎啦。

 

 
Black wool-blend felt and leather baseball cap. $2,230(P)

 
Black cotton slim tapered leg shorts. $1,970(M)

 

 

 
Black and red denim slim-fit jeans. $3,370(P)

 
Pastel blue and white stripe cotton cropped shirt. $2,290(M)

 
Purple-blue cotton patch pocket elbow-length military shirt. $2,210(M)

 
Wash-back cropped denim jacket with exaggerated-shoulder. $7,600(M)

 

 

 
Black polyester shrunken-shoulder blazer. $11,030(M)

 

 

 Burgundy cotton-blend twill cropped Harrington jacket. $6,440(P)

 

 
Multicoloured checked cotton padded shoulders coat. $13,410(P)

All available at Mr. Porter(P), Matchesfashion.com(M)and Barneys.com(B).

 

 

 

 

issue JUN 2017 VOL: 178
2017-06-12 12:38:29
【JET LOOK】NO SOUL

STYLING SUM CHAN
PHOTOGRAPHY TONY WONG
Make-up Jenny Shih At ZING the makeup school
Hair Winky Wong At The Attic
Model Ilya At Mission
Photography Assisted By Anthony
Special Thanks Tong Chan

 


__COMME des GARCONS plastic slogan vest $1,699
__NEON TOP stylist's own

__ESPRIT grey cotton logo sweatshirt $990
__ACNE STUDIOS baby blue stripes jacket $5,499


__MARNI navy and blue sweater $6,300
__LOEWE toffee zip jacket $27,650
__BALLY khaki pants $tbc
__DIOR HOMME black leather sneakers $8,600
__COMME des GARCONS black and white leather case $3,299
__SKY BLUE SOCKS stylist's own

__MONCLER beige military jacket $23,850


__LOEWE pink cropped jacket $25,500 / green trousers $27,650
__COS brown shirt $TBC
__ESPRIT floral shirt $1,650
__VALENTINO red and white suede sneakers $5,000


__VALENTINO black leather jacket $23,800 / orange knit jacket $12,800
__ACNE STUDIOS pink pants $2,899
__BERLUTI brown leather slip on $9,900
__OLIVE SOCKS stylist's own

__BALENCIAGA black slim fit suit $15,800 / pants $3,600
__BURBERRY black brogues $6,500
__DIOR nude embroidery dress $124,000