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issue JUL 2017 VOL: 179
2017-07-14 19:30:16

Gucci 唐老鴨慢遊沽池

Text : 冰汪

人世間的關係,大多有蜜月期。蜜月期內,新鮮的愛大於一切,甚麼都是甜蜜美好。可是,日子一天一天地過,蜜月保護罩逐漸失靈,真正考驗正式開始。過去兩年半,Alessandro Michele一炮而紅,得到全世界粉絲的愛,渡過了一段非比尋常的特長蜜月期。來到第五個男裝系列,他的蜜月期,能否繼續延長?

經過三十個月的隔空認識,他的懷舊美學,目不暇給的招數,總算見了真章。繼上季在天橋收養了Snoopy,這次輪到Donald Duck。觀察他的設計習慣,我不覺得是Alessandro特別喜歡唐老鴨,他只需要一個家傳戶曉的卡通人物,假如老夫子在歐美夠紅,衣服上就是老夫子。

在他悉心培植的世外桃源,鳥語花香,獅子老虎一家親,今季唐老鴨粉墨登場,為系列帶來一點迪士尼歡樂。唐老鴨家族衣服,在天橋分頭行動,有鴨頭刺繡棒球褸,有圖案冷背心,連唐老鴨刺繡tuxedo都有。他處理的唐老鴨,技巧比以往熟練與仔細,那件米色棒球褸,人工發黃的皮革,明顯是玩vintage。於是乎,他將原本縫在胸前的唐老鴨布章挑走,留下一個鴨形剪影及黃黃的烘,複製出古著的爛與殘,無縫承接他的懷舊味。

系列中,最具Alessandro風範,應該是兩件和風緹花外套,一件是軍褸,一件是trench coat。根據新聞稿,他是向日本浮世繪大師葛飾北齋致敬,兩件外套,同樣編織出日式庭院圖案,得意之處,衣服上演一幕唐老鴨穿越時空,惡搞浮世繪的Disney Moment,有一種lo-tech的喜劇效果,大人小孩都會笑瞇瞇。類似的手法,唐老鴨亦潛入另一套圖案西裝,白底的紅色圖案,唐老鴨隱身指數更高,如果可以在沒有放大鏡協助下找到Donald Duck真身,我真係恭喜你呀,這麼好眼。

大概是Alessandro的圖案衣服做得太勁,完全掩蓋他對顏色配搭的敏銳與創意。相比起容易呃like的圖案,同顏色玩遊戲所需的天分,自古以來被嚴重低估。想一下,從我們認識他的第一個系列開始,已經表明他的色彩迷戀,今年春夏,他用了頗多粉色,粉紅粉綠長褲,粉藍色蝴蝶結恤衫,好開胃的想法。好喜歡粉紫西裝配粉紅褲,裡面一件鮮黃樽領衫的造型,三種常見的顏色,上上下下放在一起,原來靚成咁。

在他的世界,充滿時裝符號,寫時裝開季報告一流。今季男裝,天橋上眾志成城做jumpsuit,他也來湊下熱鬧。人人做jumpsuit,只有Alessandro會想盡方法,做到jumpsuit唔似jumpsuit,把衣服改頭換面再升呢。首先,他設計了一幅紅色印花圖案,印上一條綠色的龍與海馬混合體,招牌式的古怪動物圖案。剪裁方面,大致上下?開兩部分,上身當成恤衫,下身當束腳運動褲,jumpsuit必備的口袋,中門大開的拉鏈,全部一掃光。製成品,有蛤?衣的結構,卻減去蛤?衣的例牌details,再加一頂綁繩大帽,有點BB仔的趣緻,cute到愛不釋手,這才是設計師的設計嘛。


Soft GG Supreme backpack with appliques $29,900


Rose velvet evening slipper with snake appliques $8,900


B
lack leather horsebit leather loafers with appliques $13,100


A
quamarine cotton wool pants with loop details $7,530


F
uchsia cotton sweatshirt with Gucci print $7.740


W
hite cotton t-shirt with furture print $3,400


M
ulticoloured intarsia wool vest with Donald Duck $20,500


I
vory cotton sweatshirt with Donald Duck embroideries


Cotton sweatshirt with Gucci print $7.740


White cotton heritage sea storm print jacket $23,500


I
vory leather bomber jacket with Donald Duck applique $53,000

issue JUL 2017 VOL: 179
2017-07-13 18:56:30
【JET LOOK】TUG OF...

STYLING SUM CHAN 

PHOTOGRAPHY LEUNGMO
Make-up San Chan At ZING the makeup school
assisted by Christine Chan
Hair Kolen But
Model Edmund E. /
Lucan C. /
Stephen H. /
Jacques B. /
Marley B. /
Parker B. /
Miro R. /
Vianney G. /
Thomas B. /
Anthony B.
At Model Genesis
Photography Assisted By Chow


LEFT:
BALENCIAGA grey c-shape doudoune jacket $15,800 / stripes pants $4,200
LANVIN pattern pullover $tbc
AMI baby blue stripes shirt $2,199 / black and white stripes t-shirt $1,399

RIGHT:
PORTS 1961 black shorts $4,500
Acne Studios blue cap / Puma vintage sweatshirt / socks stylist's own
Vans sneakers model's own


LEFT:
BALENCIAGA yellow boots $18,700
LOEWE metal silver hook charm $2,650 / black leather hook with strap $2,650 /
yellow and black leather gloves $3,700
Balenciaga navy jumpsuit / grey vest stylist's own

MIDDLE:
LOEWE light blue shirt with leather collar $9,450 / blue cropped jeans $tbc /
brown and black leather slip on loafers $6,250

RIGHT:
LOEWE black leather apron shirt $34,000
BALENCIAGA beige long sleeve shirt $2,800
BALLY red and beige sandals $tbc


LEFT:
FENDI blue slogan top $6,000 / navy nylon pants $3,900
AMI blue denim jacket $2,799
BALENCIAGA white triple s trainner $5,900
NORSE PROJECTS navy nylon cap $550 (from Kapok)

RIGHT:
PRADA brown cordroid jacket $tbc
AMI brown cotton pants $2,199
LOEWE black leather lace up boots $7,350


LEFT:
BALLY beige jacket $tbc
PRADA blue tartan shirt $tbc / burgundy pants $tbc
BOTTEGA VENETA olive leather sneakers $5,250

RIGHT:
BALENCIAGA black and white logo short sleeve shirt $3,500
LANVIN blue tartan pants $tbc
PRADA black and red leather loafers $tbc
socks stylist's own 



DIOR HOMME black and white polka dot suit jacket $16,000 / pants $5,300 /
black cotton "new wave" shirt $5,500
LOEWE white and silver asymmetric leather square chelsea boots $tbc