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issue NOV 2018 VOL: 195
2018-11-07 12:56:23

秋冬紳士帽法則

有些衣服不是人人都可以穿得好看得體,紳士帽亦然,相當蝦人戴之餘,更存在一條男孩與男人的界線,成功誇過了的話,恭喜,你已經是一位優雅成熟的男士。無論是圓形禮帽或者是沿兩側非常彎曲的Homburg等款式,只要搭配屬於秋冬的毛呢,再掌握今期介紹的紳士帽法則,便輕易集溫度與風度於一身。

 

TEXT SIMON AU
PHOTO BOWY CHAN

AGNÈS B. black fedora hat $TBC

帽子早在遠古時代已經誕生,當初只是運用布巾纏繞頭部,其功用單純是保護功能;直至中古世紀,教庭頒佈法令要人民將頭髮遮蓋起來,才漸漸出現簡單的帽型。作為公認擁有最多紳士的英國,從他們的語言便可以知道帽子的重要性,就像「hat in hand」與「take one' s hat off」的引申意思分別是「十分恭敬」和「敬仰」的意思。據說當時的英國紳士因為走進室內、與人打招呼,甚至是看到淑女都要脫帽,非官方統計一天至少穿脫帽子達三十次。有心人因此設計出帽子上方擁有縱向褶痕的Fedora紳士帽,目的是方便男士脫帽,後來Michael Jackson將它融入潮流之中,亦慢慢成為時尚分子的日常生活配搭單品。

 

PAUL SMITH
grey dégradé wool felt fedora $1,400
(from HARVEY NICOLS online store)

HERMÈS
funk hat $6,000

DSQUARED2
brown trilby hat $1,240


其實紳士帽沒有指定的類型,更多是一個派系,就像電影《北非諜影》的Fedora帽、《教父》的Homburg帽;《霹靂神探》的Porkpie帽,又或者是福爾摩斯般的Bowler帽等等,都是不同變奏的紳士帽,配合對生活有要求的男士。紳士帽在今日幾乎是很多帽子及男士時裝品牌的永恆單品,例如Paul Smith 棗紅色的Fedora帽,底部以深紫色作為配襯,在黑白灰的單調冬日搭配之中,可以成為亮眼的焦點;又如成立於2010年的佛羅倫斯帽子品牌Super Duper hats,以人手編織外圍的緞帶,同樣搶眼。

 

SUPER DUPER HATS
oversized fedora hat $3,620 (from YOOX)

BRIAN DALES
trilby hat $1,040 (from YOOX)

FRESCOBOL CARIOCA
grosgrain-trimmed straw
panama hat $1,370 (from MR PORTER)


總明白紳士堅持的是一份低調的品味,Hermès 、Dsquared2、英國的Anerson & Sheppard以及意大利奢華品牌Brian Dales的紳士帽便以最簡約的款式取勝,讓每一位男士散發時尚氣息。但值得一提的是agnès b. ,今季男裝以「Dare Sirs!」為主題,盼望愈來愈重視生活品味的都會男士,在服裝上可以不拘泥傳統,因此今次推出多款紳士帽中,又以這頂表面平平無奇,實則後端是微微凹上的Fedora帽最為突破,將現代紳士添上不失俗套的玩味。

issue NOV 2018 VOL: 195
2018-10-31 16:45:21
【JET LOOK】MOMENT OF SILENCE

STYLING SIMON AU
PHOTOGRAPHER BOWY CHAN
MAKE UP AND HAIR VIKO SUN
MODEL HUBERT W. AT A1M MANAGEMENT
SPECIAL THANKS TANG CONTEMPORARY ART AND PUERTA ROJA

 

 

left
VALENTINO grey knit coat $32,800/jersey sweatshirt $7400 VALENTINO grey knit coat $32,800/jersey sweatshirt $7400 
artwork/"Art Me, Michael Kvium, oil on canvas,190×165cm, 1994” at Tang Contemporary Art

right
HERMÈS cashmere knit $13,600/close-fitting shirt $4,500/elastic-waist trousers 6,400/boots $11,800HERMÈS cashmere knit $13,600/close-fitting shirt $4,500/elastic-waist trousers 6,400/boots $11,800
artwork/"Conditional Planes 8304, Choi Myong-Young, Oriental ink on Korean paper, 139×74×cm, 1983”/“Induction du Jaune Denise, Carlos Cruz-Diez, Chromography on aluminium, 180×80×cm, Ed. 7/8, Paris 2007” at Puetra Roja

left
JW ANDERSON  wadded trench coat $15,385 (left photo)JW ANDERSON  wadded trench coat $15,385 (left photo)
artwork/"Marisa, Hector Velazquez, Cotton yarn and plaster, 50×48×25 cm, 2002"by Paola Pezzi/"Growing Bloom, Wayan Novi, Acrylic on canvas, 120 ×100 10 Wayan Novi×cm, 2018" by Wayan Novi at Puetra Roja (from left to right)

ISSEY MIYAKE MEN  black bomber jacket $7,800 white shirt $5,800 (right photo) ISSEY MIYAKE MEN  black bomber jacket $7,800 white shirt $5,800 (right photo) 
artwork/“D'Acqua, Paola Pezzi, PVC, variable dimensions, 2018”/“Whorl, Kate MccGwire, Mixed media with Magpie feathers in antique dome, 53 ×38×38 cm, 2013” at Puetra Roja/(from top to bottom)

 

right
DIOR MEN double breasted jacket $23,000/white stretch cotton shirt $6,500/"TRIBAL" derby shoes $9,000/camel wool trousers  $7,900 DIOR MEN double breasted jacket $23,000/white stretch cotton shirt $6,500/"TRIBAL" derby shoes $9,000/camel wool trousers  $7,900 
artwork/“Geometric Balance 01 , Laurent Martin 'Lo', Black Indonesian and Nigra bamboo, steel weights, titan braid thread and mixed materials, 32×98×16 cm, 2018”/“Wall Bambow 02, Laurent Martin 'Lo', Weathered bamboo, titan braid thread, ceramic ball, 158×24×17 cm, 2018”/“Conditional Planes 8304, Choi Myong-Young, Oriental ink on Korean paper, 139×74×cm, 1983” at Puetra Roja (from left to right)

left
LOEWE  double breasted shearling coat  $53,650/sweat trousers 9,300LOEWE  double breasted shearling coat  $53,650/sweat trousers 9,300
artwork/"Pale Parade, Michael Kvium, oil on canvas, 150×200 cm, 2018,” at Tang Contemporary Art

right
GIORGIO ARMANI  velvet jersey vest $TBCGIORGIO ARMANI  velvet jersey vest $TBC
artwork/"Fool's Point, Michael Kvium, oil on canvas, 120×180 cm, 2017” at Tang Contemporary Art

BOTTEGA VENETA dark leather cotton t-shirt $4,900/red silk shirt $17,500/red silk pant $6,700BOTTEGA VENETA dark leather cotton t-shirt $4,900/red silk shirt $17,500/red silk pant $6,700
artwork/"A Dancing Show, Michael Kvium, oil on canvas,  200×200 cm, 2018”/"Contemporary Fools: Power Sculpture: Metal and silicone, Michael Kvium, 375×165×60 cm, 2017” /"Contemporary Fools: Future Sculpture: Metal and silicone, Michael Kvium, 165×165×50 cm, 2017” at Tang Contemporary Art  (from left to right