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issue SEP 2019 VOL: 205
2019-09-17 18:34:40

【JET LOOK】ONLY THOSE WHO HAVE GONE THROUGH HELL HAVE THE POWER TO BUILD HEAVEN

STYLING CLARENCE LAU
PHOTO MEIMEI YEUNG
ONLY THOSE WHO HAVE GONE THROUGH HELL HAVE THE POWER TO BUILD HEAVEN MODEL NEO FROM ELITE AND SERGEY FROM MODEL GENESIS
MAKE UP CHI CHI LI
HAIR HIM NG FROM THE ATTIC
PHOTO ASSISTANT LEUNG WAI LEUNG
STYLING ASSISTANT SAM CHEUNG AND CLARE FUNG

 

LEFT
(on neo) JIL SANDER black coat $tbc︱turtleneck top $tbc︱cape $tbc︱trousers $tbc︱BOTTEGA VENETA black boots $8,200︱STYLIST'S OWN hat (on sergey) JIL SANDER black coat $tbc︱black shirt $tbc︱black trousers $tbc︱BOTTEGA VENETA black boots $8,200︱STYLIST'S OWN hat

 

LEFT
TOP (on sergey) LOEWE patchwork shirt $15,350︱wings hat $10,400 (on neo) LOEWE oversized shirt $12,100︱wings hat $10,400
BOTTOM (on sergay) GUCCI shirt $13,500︱ear cuff $3,100 (on neo) GUCCI shirt $tbc︱lace cape $22,200︱ear cuff $3,100

RIGHT
(on sergey) PRADA leather jacket $44,250︱purple knitwear $5,550︱nylon belt $3,300︱leather belt $3,550︱grey trousers $14,750 ︱ studded shoes $8,050︱STYLIST'S OWN hat

 

 

LEFT
(on neo) BOTTEGA VENETA navy sweater $9,700︱grey sweater $9,700︱leather trousers $43,000︱leather boots $8,200︱STYLIST'S OWN hat

RIGHT
(on sergey) FENDI chains jumper $tbc︱shirt $4,500︱striped tie $1,450
(on neo) FENDI chains cardigan $26,800︱shirt $4,500︱striped tie $1,450

 

LEFT
(on neo) CELINE black blazer $26,500︱white shirt $4,550︱black tie $1,600︱black trousers $8,500︱STYLIST' S OWN hat and earrings
(on sergey) CELINE striped blazer $25,000︱striped shirt $5,300︱black tie $1,600︱striped trousers $8,500︱STYLIST'S OWN hat and earrings

RIGHT
(on neo) MAISON MARGIELA vest coat $tbc︱grey sweater $7,350︱black shoes $6,990︱JIL SANDER black trousers $tbc︱KARMUEL YOUNG earring $tbc︱STYLIST' S OWN HAT
(on sergey) MAISON MARGIELA grey coat $14,400︱black boots $tbc︱JIL SANDER black trousers $tbc︱KARMUEL YOUNG earring $tbc︱STYLIST'S OWN HAT

issue AUG 2019 VOL: 204
2019-08-13 15:12:49
Saint Laurent 搖滾二代Upcycling

要介紹今年秋冬的聖羅蘭,可以有幾個切入點。最貼題是Anthony Vaccarello星光熠熠活化八十年代rockstar,最有睇頭是完騷前全場漆黑玩螢光catwalk,最具娛樂性是Oasis主音Liam Gallagher 公子Lennon(左面穿黑西裝那位粗眉男模)再次為聖羅蘭行騷,以及Keanu Reeves同《Stranger Things》阿Mike分別成為秋冬廣告主角。不過,最直接的切入點,今季是比利時創意總監加盟以來,最靚的一季。

 Text : 冰汪

自從三年前加入聖羅蘭,Anthony Vaccarello的女裝一直有聲有色,只是男裝稍稍有點落後,彷彿仍未發力,還在摸索。直至去年六月,終於遠赴紐約舉行首場男裝騷,發布今年的春夏系列。來到秋冬,返回巴黎主場舉行這場男女同騷,依然陰盛陽衰,總共一百零三套衫,男裝只佔二十一。但,量與質,質永遠比量重要。這廿一套男裝,夠rock,亦夠貴氣,大概是street fashion泛濫地當道,物極必反,看到真正用心做luxury的設計師與衣服,總會額外加分。

以衣服類型及剪裁來歸納,秋冬系列抽取了六十年代的mod、七十年代的glam、八十年代的new wave,再加以華麗化,變成2019年名副其實高級的時裝。看看rock二代Lennon Gallagher一身造型,那件黑色西裝,衫身以大量draping製成,就連恤衫布料都是metallic混紡,這種創新與矜貴,為男裝tailoring帶來久違了的升級刺激,達至一點upcycling的感覺。然而,這場男女同騷,女裝打頭陣那幾個大膊大褸look,好似Mark哥咁有型,剪裁功架比男裝有過之而無不及,假如各位有興趣,反正是oversized,不妨
試試。

系列中,slim cut是剪裁骨幹,千變萬化的條紋主導,由西裝到西褲,皮草頸巾到皮鞋,各自配上不同形態的條子,縱橫交錯,視覺上很豐富。假如喜歡條子,這個聖羅蘭系列是超級盛宴,明間暗間,皮革皮草,橫紋直紋斜紋,大家想像到的,都應該可以找到。我最欣賞一件黑白皮革blouson,黑白色皮革構成寬闊直間,反領設計亦比品牌最熱賣的teddy jacket不同凡響。另一件紅色皮褸同樣有型,bomber jacket配西裝尖領,隱約有點Michael Jackson,是好是壞,視乎閣下對他的印象吧。

回到時裝騷,在finale部分,Anthony Vaccarello把現場射燈全關,漆黑之中,亮起紫光燈,將八十年代discotheque移師天橋進行。在紫光燈下,白色變作螢光,螢光的光上加光,雖然衣服不會看得清楚,天橋效果一百分,值得大讚。整場騷,整個系列,設計水平與處理都是Anthony Vaccarello的YSL代表作,唯一要挑剔,都係女裝靚啲囉。■